Edwardian Steam Launch - Assembly Instructions.


This launch is intended for a small electric motor and lightweight batteries/radio gear. See http://modelboats.hobby-site.com/Steampics1.html for assembly pictures and details of how to make the motor mount, propeller and rudder.


Start by cutting the parts from 1/16" and 3/32" hard balsa as specified. Where two halves are required, match them together to ensure that they are precisely equal.

Much of the wood will be visible when the boat is complete, and if a varnished finish is required, it is most convenient to put this on before assembly. 

Scribe the hull floor and deck with planking lines using a black biro. The inside of the hull sides can also have a somewhat larger planking pattern drawn in.

Coat the hull floor, formers 2, 3, and 4, and the 3 deck parts with a mahogany stain and outdoor varnish. Leave to dry and sand. Repeat if necessary to achieve a smooth surface.

Join the 3 deck parts together. PVA glue with a touch of black paint will make the joints look like planking.

Glue the keel to the underneath of the hull floor. Note that there is a slight curve to it, so the hull floor needs to be held or pinned onto the keel while it is gluing.

When the keel is dry and firm, glue all the hull formers to the top of the hull floor, and attach the bow former.

Make the stern former by attaching two lengths of brass tubing as shown to the 3/32" balsa with epoxy. these will become the rudder tube and the flagstaff holder. When dry, cement the stern former in place.

Glue the deck on top of the formers, checking that it is central. The deck is curved, so it will need to be pinned down to create the curve.

Glue the lower hull formers in place under the hull floor, and attach the prop-shaft and rear keel support. Add the keel doublers before the glue is dry!

When the formers are quite stiff, the sides can be attached. The side pieces are drawn with a little extra at the bottom and bow - fit them to the top and stern, and then trim the overlap at the bow and bevel it with sandpaper to achieve a sharp joint. The stern can be steamed on one side until it curls, and it may then be easily glued in place. Butt-join it onto the sides, and use the Stern Side doublers to secure the joint. Check by eye as the sides are put on that the hull is not twisted.

Make the motor mount and dummy boiler/engine as described in the Fittings page on the web site. Check that the motor is aligned with the prop-shaft, and glue or bolt it in place. Drill a hole in the deck for the motor wire and pass it under the deck, through holes drilled in the formers, and up through a hole drilled in the deck inside the cabin area.

Once the wire is fitted and the sides are dry and stiff, the bottom pieces can be fitted. They will lie fairly flat, and will need few pins, but will probably need a bit of trimming. The plan drawing should be considered an indication of shape rather than a precise fit! They butt against the keel at the stern, but then ride up over it towards the bow and come together at the front. Bevel them for a sharp join. If there are any gaps or discontinuities where the bottom skin joins the keel, patch with scrap balsa. Check that the hull remains true and unwarped while you add the bottom skins, and remember to add the semi-circle skin at the stern - it just lies flat against the hull floor. 


The cabin can now be assembled - simply join the four sides and the roof. You may wish to stain and varnish the cabin sides before joining. Take more care to keep everything light the higher you get, otherwise the boat will become unstable. Add the fringe from the Trim pack on the web site to the edge of the roof, and a couple of thin strips of balsa at the front of the roof for dummy supporting posts (not shown on the plans!)


This boat will not take a heavy weight, and needs all weight kept as low as possible - it's best to use a flat pack of 4 AAAs which will easily go in the cabin area. The original used a small brushed ESC with the thick motor leads unsoldered and a floppy disk power connector attached to cut down on heavy and bulky cables. A sub-micro 3.5g servo was connected to the rudder arm from inside the cabin.  

If you want a bit more realism, a thin strip of hard wood from a lollipop stick can be attached between the rear of the keel and the end of the rudder shaft to act as a propeller guard.